Wheels of Fortune: Local Cheesemaker Triumphs at Major Competition

Nestled just south of Woodstock, known as Canada’s dairy capital, Gunn's Hill Artisan Cheese is making waves with its award-winning cheeses. Owned by the dynamic duo Shep Ysselstein and Colleen Bator, this local gem has earned numerous accolades since its inception 13 years ago.

The latest feather in their cap comes from the American Cheese Society’s 2024 competition, where Gunn's Hill Artisan Cheese snagged first and second place finishes, much to the delight of Ysselstein and Bator.

Bator, who also juggles a full-time job as a high school teacher in the Norfolk County town of Delhi, expresses their surprise and joy. With numerous wins in Canadian competitions, the recognition in this renowned American event felt especially gratifying.

Their Dark Side of the Moo, a beer-marinated cheese, claimed the top spot in the flavor cheese category, while Five Brothers, another standout, secured second place in the washed-rind category. These categories celebrate cheeses that undergo special treatments to enhance their unique profiles.

The American Cheese Society is an industry heavyweight, and their annual competition is akin to the Olympics of cheese. Held in Buffalo, N.Y., this event comes with no prize money, but the award medals are highly coveted for the prestige they bring.

Ysselstein shares the exhilaration, reminiscing about the journey that led them here. After a transformative trip to a Thunder Bay cheese factory during his university days, Ysselstein was bitten by the cheesemaking bug. This newfound passion took him far and wide, from the University of Guelph and Vermont to stints in upstate New York, Switzerland, and British Columbia.

The Swiss Alps, in particular, left a lasting impression, inspiring many of the styles they produce today. With Ysselstein’s cheesemaking prowess and Bator’s educational expertise, Gunn's Hill Artisan Cheese has grown into an 11,000-square-foot factory capable of aging up to 14,000 wheels of cheese.

Friesvale Farms, the Ysselstein family dairy farm, supplies the milk for their cheeses. Located just a kilometer away in Norwich Township, Friesvale Farms contributes about 80% of its yield to the cheese factory, amounting to a substantial 20,000 liters weekly. This translates into roughly 100 wheels of cheese daily.

The aging process is meticulous, with some cheeses maturing for months or even years before hitting the market. Their best-seller, Five Brothers, ages for eight months, while the harder Handeck cheese is kept for two years before it’s ready for sale.

Gunn’s Hill cheeses are found in over 300 locations across Ontario, including markets, grocery stores, and specialty shops. Ysselstein and Bator focus on creating unique styles that stand out in the crowded cheese market, often favoring less common varieties over traditional cheddars.

Their story is a testament to the power of passion, hard work, and dedication. By focusing on the finer details and staying true to their unique approach, Gunn's Hill Artisan Cheese has firmly established itself in the cheese-making world.